A languid, impressionistic stroll through the Vieux Carre is for me, the microcosm of a New Orleans vacation in July or August. One swims through the heat and humidity, making it a part of oneself-- all the while sipping cocktails, soaking up the occasional shower, architecture and stories of the abundant characters that populate the city. There is much history about NOLA to learn, but I think the best way to start the learning process is to spend at least a couple of visits intuitively meandering through the Upper French Quarter, without paying too much attention to names, dates or where you're literally existing at a given moment. You'll feel the presence and energy of the past; they become a part of your subconscious and guide you while you walk--past cathedrals, gas lights, balconies covered in vines and flowers. . . .down Bourbon Street and under the giant shadow of Jesus in back of the Old St. Louis Cathedral, where you'll finally realize that there's only a hair's breadth of difference, if that, between sinners and saints.
Photo of Jesus' shadow courtesy of wikipedia (mind didn't turn out)
Paul bought a hat at this shop in the French Quarter, just around the corner from Pirate's Alley. If you look closely, you can see the proprietor waving to us as we leave, a detail we didn't notice until we uploaded the pictures to our computer back in St. Louis. The shop had just opened, free lemonade with Jack Daniels was being served. Once again, we were thankful for being allowed to urban hike with our cocktails
Pirates' Alley, Upper French Quarter There is an Absinthe Bar, and most importantly, the Faulkner Book Store, housed in the apartment where Faulkner drafter his novel A Soldier's Pay. On our last night, we met Weston, a full-time pirate, part-time off duty bouncer at the Absinthe Bar in Pirate's Alley. The alley is named after the famous swashbuckling Lafitte Brothers, who probably didn't actually live here. But like everything in New Orleans, it's the story and its affect that matters, not the literal truth:).
This door is preserved in the Katrina exhibit at the Cabildo.
What the markings mean: date and time house was checked, information about hazards encountered, whether anyone was found alive or not (lower quadrant).
For more information and reflection about Katrina, check out Southern Spaces: An interdisciplinary journal about regions, places, cultures of the American South and their global connections.
A Mardi Gras wreath of peacock feathers. This one was on display in Red Gravy, a small breakfast and lunch restaurant on Camp Street, just outside the French Quarter (in the Warehouse District
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This plaque commemorates the firebombing of the Upstairs Lounge in 1973 in which 32 homosexuals were killed. Although tragic, the bombing helped to mobilize gay rights activists in New Orleans.
Window where the Upstairs Lounge was
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This plaque commemorates the firebombing of the Upstairs Lounge in 1973 in which 32 homosexuals were killed. Although tragic, the bombing helped to mobilize gay rights activists in New Orleans.
Window where the Upstairs Lounge was
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